Essi Avellan: Deep yellow color. Smooth toffee and vanilla nose, with red-apple, honey, and lactic nuances. A fruity and round palate with signs of evolution. Fresh in acidity, with fair fruit intensity but not much complexity. Will not improve but can be kept. 15

Michael Edwards: Lemon yellow. Briskly assertive and mineral; a healthy, positive Champagne, but today rather reductive, lacking generosity and expression. 15

Tom Stevenson: Has richness but also a country-rustic character. Needs food, but not fine food—a late-night supper, perhaps. 16