Michael Edwards: A good wine, with little of the lean asperity that can mark the also-rans of this cold vintage. Generous citrus fruits, a hint of spice, and a wellmade Champagne that worked well in a difficult year. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Bright, light gold with languid mousse. Lots of biscuity fullness here; almost a malty note, too. Agreeable and full, but not super-subtle. Vivid, round, fresh, lively, long; fine-quality fruit, well handled; creamy textures; and a finish with plenty of poise and freshness. Outstanding vinification work with good raw materials. So good, indeed, you wonder what else it has to do—and I guess the answer is that there isn’t quite the electric nerve, incision, and aromatic profundity of the very greatest blanc de blancs, as well as a slight lack of aromatic finesse. The vintage at work? But in every other respect, this is an outstanding contender. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Lovely yeast-complexed Chardonnay fruit lifted by a super-silky mousse, this will get more complex and attain even greater finesse as it ages. 18.5