Tim Atkin: Dense color. Big, pruney, oxidative style. Surprisingly low in alcohol. Dry, quite oaky; almost a dried-fruit, Amarone note here. Tannic, quite dry finish, with some VA. Second bottle no better 11

Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, with beginnings of turn on edge. Clean, fresh, cherry-and-tobacco nose. Has fruit on palate, but at present it’s masked by a very aggressive acidity, which isn’t helped by firm tannin, making for quite hard work on the finish. Long, though, and possibly a winner in the future; certainly a wine of little compromise 15

Bruno Besa: Black core to ruby/pink rim. Open, mature nose, with blackberry jam and hints of mint. Balanced palate, yet a touch simple and not very long 15