Nicolas Belfrage: Deepish color. Some wood, some cherry/ berry on nose; fresh and attractive if not totally typical. Acidity a bit low on palate, creating a Polo mint effect; tannins then return with something of a vengeance. In the end, it’s the lowish acidity that lets it down; promises well but doesn’t deliver (yet). Drink 2014+ - 13

Stephen Brook: Very deep plum red. Warm, earthy nose, meaty and tarry, lush and relaxed, like a cat sprawled on a ledge (forgive the pretentious analogy). Very rich, luxurious, and supple, with admirable breadth of fruit, concentration, and spice. Lively acidity sustains the wine and gives it energy and keeps flabbiness at bay. Harmonious and very long, if surprisingly evolved—but there’s no sign that it’s flagging - 17

Jancis Robinson: Dark, glowing, blackish ruby. Quite volatile. Dry finish. Just this side of the Douro, it’s so ripe! A very opulent style of Barolo—surely a warmer site? Hint of saltiness, even mousiness, but certainly dramatic. Drink 2014–20 - 16