Andrew Jefford: A clear red-russet color. Warm, full, lifted aromas of yellow summer fruits, red fruits and light caramel, though there is also a vegetative/vetiver note that I haven’t seen in any of the other wines so far. Intriguing, long, articulate; very harmonious, too. Intense, light, and relatively dry on the palate, this is a soprano among our choir of basses and baritones, relying very much on a deep vein of summer-fruit-saturated acidity. Poised and complex. A fine, refined, fortified wine, though not classic dessert material. Long, extractive finish 15.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, green-tinged rim; savory baked, dried fruit compote on the nose, slightly burned; rich but quite dry in style, again savory and almost saline—a fairly powerful tang yet retaining delicacy and finesse on the finish. Long and linear 18.: Jancis Robinson: Orange tawny, with a yellow rim. Candied orange peel on the nose. Very lifted and quite volatile. Rather austere rancio and acidity on the finish. Almost Vin Santo style. Punchy. Not that sweet but very transparent in every way. Delicate. But aggressive in its attack on the palate, too. Drink 2005–20 17