Andrew Jefford: A very bright, burnished orange. Zingy, fresh aromatic profile: a kind of macedonia of citrus, cherry, nectarine, and peach, with some savory oxidative/cow-byre notes behind for lift and complexity. Tangy, acidic, bright, pungent—barely sweet at all, but very aerial, very energetic, very searching. You could easily use this as an apéritif, and the prominent acidity has mouth-rousing qualities. Rings out like a bugle 15

Richard Mayson: Pale orange-amber in color; lovely aromas: smoked, nutty, slightly floral, jasmine with straw and silage on the turn; fine and delicate, more in the character of a late harvest, sweet and almondy, with fresh acidity, a hint of cask, and some textural depth and concentration from age. A newstyle Barbeito? 18 Jancis Robinson: Very pale, light tawny. Rather simple nose. Just off-dry, with masses of acidity. Light Marsala or Madeira? Very refreshing apéritif, but it wouldn’t stand up to much food. Good palate rinse. Revitalizing. Drink 2005–18 17