Andrew Jefford: Pale, clear, light russet-walnut; almost evanescent. Refined, expressive, casky, almost a little eggy; principally, though, lots of late-summer fruits left to dry on a westfacing windowsill. Moist vanilla; a promise of tangerine peel. Graceful, light, smooth, all very digested by time... and in a way I want to claim a little back from time now. I almost feel that time has gobbled up more than it should have. It is lovely, graceful, pretty fortified wine of considerable finesse, but like the old lady, it is beginning to shrink a little. There is nothing grand here; all is grace 15

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with a glint of olive green on the rim; complex high-toned aromas, pleasantly autumnal with a hint of bonfire smoke; similarly autumnal on the palate. Dried-apricot richness, with lovely weight behind it, a vestige of tannin toward the finish. But I am still not finding the acidity here 16.5 Jancis Robinson: Pale yellow tawny. Some quite old wood. Lots of acidity. A bit of a hole in the middle. Drink 1995–2015 16.5