Tim Atkin: Mid-straw, with a hint of gold. Rich, concentrated, later-picked style. Some spicy oak that doesn’t altogether work with the fruit or the variety. Way too savory/oaky, with the oak drying out the finish 13

Jesús Barquín: Medium-golden yellow with green hues. Vanilla notes contrast with the previous (unoaked) wines of the tasting and make the wood more obvious. Oak notes need further integration, but underneath there is good citrus fruit. Intense and long, with good acidity 15

Simon Field: A nose of stewed fruit, with a hint of spice, followed by a palate that is rounded, quite creamy, and modern—perhaps a little “made” on the finish and, therefore (thinking backwards), a little hollow in the middle 14.5