Tim Atkin: Pale straw/lemon. Spicy, citrus, grape-skin bitterness, fresh acidity with good texture and concentration. Pear and apple, slight spritz; good length, freshness, and balance 15

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Lean apricot nose. Good attack, fresh, quite creamy, has concentration and weight without being heavy or blowsy. Well balanced and refreshing, with a touch of oak on the finish. There’s some power, too. Good length 16

Alex Hunt: Fresh for a three-year-old, but on the neutral side, with notes of almond, green apple, and rubber. Dry, balanced, and characteristic on the palate, with a decent finish. This is effective if not exactly thrilling Verdicchio 14.5