Nicolas Belfrage: (cc: water-pale = 1; deep gold = 9) cc3. Clean, slightly perfumed nose. Floral character on the palate, with some viscosity and pungency. Slightly low acidity so that it finishes a bit sweet (though dry), but well made and typical of the grape- 15

Marcel Orford-Williams: Attractive, smoky nose. There is some finesse—something that was lacking in the Italian section—but there is also too much sweetness, which makes this heavy and difficult to drink. Well made, though, and not cheap- 15

Joanna Simon: Bright, medium-pale. Ripe, honeyed, tropical-fruit nose. Ripe, fleshy palate. Very peachy fruit, with spicy cinnamon notes and some white pepper. Weighty, and quite oily in texture. Pronounced residual sugar. Medium dry. There is acidity but not enough to make this a refreshing wine- 13