Michael Edwards: White creamy mousse; very ’10-ish smack of acidity au nez, a bit awkward and gawky on palate. From not fully ripe grapes. So-so 12

Simon Field: Youthful rather amylic notes, redolent of iodine, jasmine, and slate; then a precocious palate, where the makeup of dosage has been applied with only limited success 12

Tom Stevenson: High acids, curious peppery fruit, with a citrus finish, sitting on a firm mousse of small but not tiny bubbles, which need a little more bottle aging to soften. An oddball 12.5