Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; sustained mousse. Fine, powdery scents of considerable finesse and charm: lots of crushed stone; discreet pear and quince fruits; a nascent creamy hazel character, too. On the palate, the wine is slightly richer and more forceful in its expression than the nose suggested, but it’s very good, vinous, long, secondary and refined, and a year or two will tone down that exuberance and bring it into perfect equilibrium. Excellent blanc de blancs. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Very rich and fruity. Some VA lifting. 14.5