Essi Avellan: Deep glossy golden. Superb, up-front coffee, pastry, apricot nose. A candle-waxy fresh disgorgement feel to it still. Ripe and evolving but really healthy and appetizing. Fleshy, mouth-filling but pristinely fresh palate. Smooth, round, velvety, yet comes with positive energy. Delightfully fresh, yet impressive in its grandeur and complexity. 19

Simon Field: A strident luminous color is matched by a very assertive, oaky nose. Undulled by time, it seems. The palate is strident, almost tannic—a Champagne to take on all comers in the whitewine firmament, and I suspect, one that will invariably win its battles. 18.5

Tom Stevenson: Such a bright, pale wine for almost a quarter of a century old, gorgeously toasty and delicately rich, with class and style. 19 (6 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 9g/l dosage; 40mg/l total SO2)