Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Fresh, stylishly subdued nose with creamy complexity and emerging toasty depth. Sweet fruitiness. Fine, firm, balanced palate full of pristine fruit. Delicate, reductive gunpowder notes underneath. Joyous, but has character, too. Still tight, and will benefit from a few years’ extra keeping. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold with steady mousse. Aromatically this isn’t hugely allusive at first, but it’s correct and it resists easy summary, which is always a good sign; you may get more with the air contact. Lemon, touch of pine, pollen, brioche, given that time. Boisterous, exuberant and sherbetty on the palate, but concentrated and long, too, and there is nice backing richness from the lees contact. Well-crafted wine from good raw materials. Not in any way difficult or austere; a good introductory single-vineyard Champagne. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Soft, sweet, and yet decidedly brut, with a creamy finish. 17.5