Essi Avellan: Deep, developing golden color. A soft, fresh mushroom note floating over sweet white fruit. Fruity otherwise, but these aromas show the age. Sweet, opulent dosage and richness. Peculiar but not bad, despite the mushroom note. Autumnal and velvet-smooth on the palate. Beautiful, but huge acidity for a 1990. The second magnum is happily missing most of the mushroom notes— still a hint of it there, but not a disturbing amount. Simply delicious. 18.5

Simon Field: Finely judged in all its elements, this wine juxtaposes the sweet and the savory with beguiling finesse. The palate, to be fair, cedes to the latter with smoky indulgence, but the acidity and innate fruit character ensure that the ensemble is finely composed and nicely integrated. 17

Tom Stevenson: The first bottle was a touch mushroomy, but the second bottle happily not. The first bottle showed so much potential, but the second bottle was absolutely lovely: rich, smooth, complete, and delicious. 18.5 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 9g/l dosage; 40mg/l total SO2)