Nicolas Belfrage: Virtually opaque. Vanilla and slight char on the nose. Bags of relatively soft ripe fruit, without too much backbone. Plums and cherries with some balancing acidity, but not a long-distance runner. A pleasure to drink now, however. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to ruby, garnet rim. A touch closed yet mature, complex, clean, small-blackfruits nose, with oriental spices and hints of fresh aromatic herbs. Round, mature palate, with soft yet firm tannins. A very youthful Barolo that needs time. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark red. Exotic, rich, layered; very ripe, creamy fruits. White mushroom and a spoon of cream swirled into the blackberry mix. What makes it Barolo? After a while, the mushrooms get the upper hand: mushrooms, funghi, funghi porcini—yes, we’re there… Deep, searching, masterful, very round, brought together to a concentrated bright point of fruit at its core, elegant, long, subsiding gently, and on the palate much more classical redcurrant than slightly alien blackberry. A glorious wine from a glorious vintage; a very impressive balance here between extractive austerity and overall generosity and amplitude (though this wine has youthful scents that might well appear unclassical to purists). If Barolo can be sexy… 17