Nicolas Belfrage: Typical Barolo hue of garnet. Deep, concentrated wine, with floral-herbal aromas and rich, ripe, balanced fruit, lacking just a touch of grip at the back. Plenty to it though. Drink from 2016. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Open, spicy nose, with orange peel and small red fruits. Full-bodied, with massive tannins yet clean, with a lively finish. A wine that needs time to show at its best. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Clear, limpid garnet red. A very beautiful, serene, seamless aroma of great curranty classicism; lifted, long, and engaging. It’s not the most detailed aroma on the table, but it is spot-on in terms of allusion, warmth, and charm. And it seems “mature”: a convincing argument for the aging regulations. On the palate, the wine is exactly what the aroma suggested it would be: graceful, smooth, open, glowing with poised, perfectly judged ripeness. A banker of a Barolo, in the old and now outdated sense of banker: probity, reliability, fidelity, secure resource. A lovely wine to own and to drink, though I see no particular need to keep it longer. 16.5