Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon-gold. Nose is really intense: It is age-mellowed, soft, and appears sweet, with toffee apple, honey, and floral tones. Big, bold palate with fine acidity. Slightly grippy and dry at the finish, thus shortening the taste. Oxidative character barely under control. 15

Andrew Jefford: Full gold and gentle mousse. Plenty of age here, and we are gracefully getting into the walnutty phase. Full, developed, evolved, vinous, and firm, with both creamy hazels and a bite of the darker walnut notes. Very successful as a Brut Nature: The balance is impeccable, and the wine carries so well into the finish without any cloying platitudinousness. Fruit and stone at the last, as it should be. Grand stuff. Rewardingly difficult flavors—that’s why we’re here. 18.5

Tom Stevenson: Beginning to show its age, yet offers some intriguingly ripe and mature notes. The 2002 vintage is perhaps winning the battle against the terroir, but the result is very gastro-friendly. I would love to see this at the table. More interesting than any great finesse, but that said, it is very interesting indeed. 18