Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Aged nose with sweet floral and honey tones, nuts, and confectionary. Great acidity on the palate, feels much fresher than what was suggested by the calm nose. Mild oxidative notes, but not too much. Super-dry but it can take it. Great intensity and beautiful skeleton. Palate-cleansing freshness. Unique style. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; languid mousse. Bready and rich to smell; the yeasts have left their mark, but these notes are painted over a cushion of soft, sweet fruit. Rather understated aromatically, as most of the Brut Nature wines are, but attractive all the same. On the palate, this is a richer, more open-pored Champagne than the often tight and clenched-jawed norm for Brut Nature: long, articulate, and based on beautifully ripened fruit, which really carries the wine and gives it lift and expressiveness. Mineral, salty finish once the fruit has foamed down. Quite delicious and a very successful Brut Nature from somewhere or other propitious. Now where? 17.5

Tom Stevenson: If you’re in the zone of oxidative-styled Champagne, this has an impressive intensity and length without creating too much weight and a lovely, soft mousse of minuscule bubbles. This is, no doubt, due to its extensive yeast contact. Although already ten years old, this could be kept longer. 16