Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Sweet, almost overripe nose with lifted, varnish tones. Pungent, concentrated palate. There is power, but at the expense of finesse. 13

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; steady mousse. Full, sweet, maternal, nourishing Champagne scents, but lacks precision. Similar on the palate: long, full, generous, but the contours are a little looser than in the best of its peers. Good-quality fruit makes it a thoroughly enjoyable Champagne nonetheless. 15

Tom Stevenson: Remarkably clean and concentrated fruit, supported by deliriously high acids and a fabulously soft, creamy, and silky mousse. 18.5