Essi Avellan: Bright lemon color. Strangely lifted nose, with evolution, hazelnut, and varnish on top of sweet tropical fruitiness. Feels dry, with the fruit starting to wither. | 85

Simon Field: Big-boned and broad of texture, the edifice venerable but creaking a little; maybe crying out for its sibling varieties, their reputations resonant, the ensemble hitherto fine and poised but a little rough-hewn, albeit by necessity. The red-fruit purity stands out, as does the grip on the finish. All in all, a most commendable effort in its class. | 91

Tom Stevenson: fine, smoky aromas, rich fruit, lovely high acids, but a touch of “hospital” and a bit disjointed. | 87