Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Soft, ripe apple nose, red-fruit, spices and apple-pie tones. Some complexity on the nose. Full-bodied, mouth-filling, soft palate. It has got some charm and does not feel too dry for a Brut Nature. Still, rather singular. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; energetic mousse. Warm, rich, wellrounded aromas of orchards in autumn: ripe fruit, and a few windfalls in the deep grass. Vivid, round, soft fruit; very well balanced considering that we are among the unsweetened wines, so presumably a nice warm site. Sound and satisfying, though without much focus or precision. 14

Tom Stevenson: Very much a fruit-forward style, with slightly VA-lifted pineapple fruit dominating and touch acetic on the finish. Not at all special, but I like this more than my frank appraisal sounds. Drink; do not keep. 15