Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. This is pretty good, I have to say: earthy, truffley, resonant, and exciting, with a lovely incense-rich ripeness. Warm on the palate, full, very ripe, a touch raisiny, ample: Thank you very much for all of this, and yet it is so lush and low-acid and out-on-the-boardwalk that in the end it is a little less interesting than the nose suggested it would be. Redeemed, nonetheless, by super tannins. I wouldn’t try exporting this to Australia, but it will make a very gratifying and dense bottle for the next few years. Gorgeous tannins, don’t forget! 2018–25. 91