Tim Atkin: Tawny/brick red. Developed for a wine of this age. Or maybe it’s just Pinot Noir. Nice, sweet, supple, complex, lots of leafy fruit, wild strawberry. Perfumed, complex; hint of feral; good oak usage. Long, fine. 16

Alex Hunt: Delicate strawberry and fresh-mushroom aromas. Some attractive fruit on the palate, but some uncomfortable evolved character, too, and a rather stringy texture. Surely better in its youth. 12.5

Anthony Rose: With such washed-out colors, this looks more like a rosé than a red, but it smells sweet, cherryish, and leathery, and more Pinot Noir-like than anything else, and it tastes cherry-fruity and gamey at the same time. Maybe its evolution strips the wine of a bit of aroma and fruit, but it’s interesting, true to type, attractively spicy, and cherryish. Halfway between Burgundy and gran reserva Rioja, it offers something different. 15.5