Michael Edwards: Maybe low dosage, but this has confectioner’s flavors that you either love or hate. Honeyed but again rather clumsy and ill balanced. 14

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; languid mousse. Sweet banana and new car fascia scents. Rather a slapdash flavor: those fattier notes with some neutral acidity to brace them up a bit, but little nobility of flavor and no purity or finesse. It’s still Champagne, of course, and the virtue of extra-brut (or brut nature) is that you can almost always taste the mineral salty or chalky notes at the very end of the palate and don’t have to fight off a fog of dosage; so here. But the raw materials and the winery handling weren’t impeccable. 12.5

Tom Stevenson: A distinctive, almost terpenic aroma with a hint of Riesling-like fruit on the palate. A bit of an oddball, but not unappreciated. It does its own thing and is not oxidative. 15