Essi Avellan: Deep peach-hued colour. Sweet, oaky, smoky and charred nose, with oxidative notes that mask the fruitiness. Calm, even dull, and could use more life and freshness. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Golden butterscotch now. Very unctuous: peach and balsam. Rich, chewy, and full, but it lacks a little vitality and nerve. I don’t know if it came into being on a hill, but it seems to be going over the top. 12.5

Tom Stevenson: Deep gold, perhaps even rose-gold, with an intense, oaky aroma. Maintains an attractive light balance through to the finish. 16