Essi Avellan: Medium lemon color. Stylishly fragrant nose with a potpourri of aromatic flowers and perfume. Tropical marmalade notes. Much drier on the palate than the sweet nose suggested: somewhat contrasting. Fine freshness and fruit purity, but a gentle dosage would enhance deliciousness. | 89

Simon Field: Straw color and a whirligig of fizz, soon dissipated, the palate relatively austere, oak evidenced, also sourdough and white pepper; seemingly young-vine acidity runs through the ensemble—a hard note of realism, which both controls and limits the thread of aspiration. | 87

Tom Stevenson: Volatile oak, acetic fruit. | 79