Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep. Vanilla and spice on the nose, with hits of rose. Opulent and ripe on the palate, but well cut by the acidity; rich but restrained. The firm acidity will carry it far, though it could be drunk with enjoyment from 2016. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Black core to thin garnet rim. Mature nose, with prune juice and orange marmalade; clean, with medicinal herbs and oriental spices. Fullbodied, with huge tannins and sweet fruit, long and complex, with a lively small-red-fruit finish. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red. Sweet, exotic, almost caramelly when first poured. Should Barolo be caramelly? Probably not if you are a classicist, yet I challenge any unaligned drinker to smell this and not relish it. More complexity comes with the sliced white mushroom and truffle. As so often in this tasting, this is a wine one would love to give eight hours of air in a decanter. Every three minutes seems to bring new complexities. Rich, deep, searching, and serious on the palate: One sip, and you realize you are in the presence of grand Barolo in extreme youth. Magnificent density of fruit, which on the palate completely occludes the slightly superficial aromatic sweetness the wine seemed to have; grippy, authoritative tannins; splendid resonant ripeness; length, poise, and depth. Marvelous vineyards, for sure, and masterly handling, though this is a wine that insists on at least a decade’s cellaring. 18