Nicolas Belfrage: Opaque. Plum and blackberry on nose. Good mix of modern and traditional on the nose. Rich and concentrated it may be, but it is lifted by very bright acidity, which also helps give it considerable length. Quite a powerhouse. Drink from 2018. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet core to tawny rim. Open, road-tar-and-fresh-herbs nose, with prunes and blackberries and hints of cedarwood and oriental spices. Full body, with sweet black fruit but an austere mid-palate, long and clean. A youthful Barolo of great complexity. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Bottle 1: Corked. Bottle 2: Very fine, rich, earthy, dense aromas, packed with black chocolate, spice, and undergrowth. A sensationally exciting nose, in truth, with a wonderful combination of primary (black fruit) and secondary (spice) notes. New style, I guess, but unquestionably head-turning and diverting. Rich, soft, ripe, exotic flavors, but for a tanninhound like me these are a little bit on the soft side; the tannic support is almost an afterthought. But if you want round, sweet-edged, spice-nuanced quivering fruit flavor, there is a mass of it here. A huge amount to enjoy, honestly, despite my misgivings. 15