Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Fudge and spice on the nose. Plenty of sweet ripe fruit in the mouth, good side-to-side acidity, plenty of concentration. Somewhat unorthodox, but promises well from 2017. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Very deep garnet to pink, tawny rim. A touch rustic on the nose, with bing cherries, oriental spices, and cedarwood. Full body, again a little rustic and a touch bitter on the palate. A very young wine that should get better over a few years. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. The aromatic fruit notes here have unusual charm to them: rosy Barolo fruit but with a billow of cherry blossom from the south blown into it, too. A graceful and enticing scent. On the palate, this is quite severe and masterful, by contrast, and again fruit takes the lead in the constitution of its personality: concentrated, dense, tight, inky plums, seeping and weeping tears of tannin (masterful fruit-tannin integration, in other words). Not an easy or affable wine on the palate at this stage, but very classic and very good. Combined with that aromatic grace, it makes for an outstanding young wine, if just a little bit brutal for now. 17