Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep. Attractive, dark-cherry and goudron nose. Characterful, well-balanced wine, neither overconcentrated nor lacking in power. Needs 3 years, then should drink nicely. 17

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Complex, mineral, elegant nose, with cedarwood, prunes, and cherries, hints of eucalyptus and oriental spices. A balanced palate, with clean red fruit and austere yet refined tannins; long, with a rosewater finish. A classic Barolo of great charm. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark garnet. Vivid, fresh, and well rounded, though slightly lacking in focus. Soft, gentle, and open Barolo, but without a lot of freshfruit poise and with no phenolic grandeur at all. (The tannins, though present, are faintly pinched.) Entry-point Barolo, one hopes. 12