Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep color. Quite a strongly scented nose: floral. A bit saline in the mouth (“minerally”); medium texture, juicy and sweet in the mouth, cut by firm but ripe tannins. Has elegance and a certain, individual character. Drink from 2016. 16

Bruno Besa: Garnet to light pink, garnet rim. Open, spicy, complex, mineral, small black fruits, yet restrained and elegant on the nose. Soft, balanced palate, with big, refined tannins and a long, mineral finish. An old-school Barolo that will age gracefully but is already providing a lot of pleasure. 18

Andrew Jefford: Markedly paler than most of its peers. Amply aromatic, and seems gratifyingly evolved. There are some savory, almost farmy notes here: leather, but also something of the cow it once was. Plus raw liver and muddy plums and autumn mists in the woods. Enjoyably open, ample, and allusive, in other words, and a lovely smell of the countryside for those who are confined to the city. On the palate, this is a light, open, graceful, and almost charming Barolo of smooth texture and limpid fruit. Most of the complexity lies in the aroma, which suggests to me that it won’t be a longdistance runner, but there is plenty to enjoy from now and for the next decade. 14