Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep with a garnet rim. Currently relatively inexpressive on the nose, and this is repeated on entry, but it grows in the mouth, not entirely successfully. The positives are fruit and acidity, which make for good length. Drink from 2016. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. A touch rustic on the nose, with spices, road tar, rosewater, and medicinal herbs. A little simple on the palate, with slightly green fruit. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: A clear, limpid, open-pored garnet. Lots of cherry fruits here, and some perfumed plum, too: almost a scent of the lakes, up here in the mountain foothills. Open, softly tannic, agreeable, even mellow: completely delicious Barolo; teatime Barolo; Barolo for the sofa. I’d love to drink this tonight, but it is not an ambitious wine to stow away in your cellar. 13