Nicolas Belfrage: Black, opaque: very deep. Vanilla and coffee on the nose. Big, rich, concentrated but somewhat top-heavy wine, probably much appreciated by many. Drink from 2017. 15

Bruno Besa: Black core to thin tawny, pink rim. Mature, prune juice-like nose, clean herbs and road tar: youthful. Full body, with big yet soft tannins and a long, black-fruit finish. A very young Barolo that needs time to show a bit more of its true character. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red in color; still opaque. Exuberant and slightly unpredictable: there are allusions here that remind me variously of Roma tomatoes and green malt: striking but frankly odd. Later, incense spice brings it back on track. On the palate, it’s a deep wine, with plenty of hinterland and resource to it, so I’m loath to write it off: fine, ample, gently extracted tannins over a core of lavish plum fruit. Perhaps these strange aromatic notes are related to wood in some way, since there is nothing intrinsically kinky or out of kilter about the fruit quality. Licorice on the finish, which bodes well. A provisional score; the wine may well improve and find more purity and classicism as it ages, and it is possibly underscored for its intrinsic qualities. I sense that the raw materials here are very good. 16