Ruinart Millésime Brut Champagne France 2015 (12.5% ABV) – 94
SF | Green-gold, with a generous, semi-savory aromatic; umami, quince, and even a hint of white truffle. Broader than many on the palate, but not at the expense of a rigorous and pleasing structure, deferential to the warm vintage in terms of ripeness, but constrained by the rigor of its own construction. Distinctive and not without distinction. 95
EA | Pale lemon color. Beautifully toast-complexed nose, with smoky-reductive and florally fragrant tones overlying the pristine orchard fruit core. The palate matches the nose with the fine, cushiony quality of the mousse and pristine, cool, and crunchy fruitiness. Good freshness and succulent fruitiness add on the wine's deliciousness. A very good effort for the vintage. 95
TH | A beautifully exotic, almost dramatic nose of gunflint, mango, clementine, and blossom, this is a surprisingly svelte and brightly toned 2015 of notable refinement, subtly backed up by delicate lees-aging textural interest. The heat of the year is muted, teased into precise tropical fruits and finessed, smoky, charry notes, carefully balanced; impressive. 2023–28. 93