Andrew Jefford: Full glowing gold; languid mousse. Soft, gentle, honeyed, gracious, and almondy; also something a little mossy, earthy, and mushroomy now. On the palate, and rather to my surprise, this is very dry (extra-brut?) and driving, with a relatively austere finish. Piercing and long. There is good aromatic resonance from that lean apple fruit, but its very leanness is still a surprising contrast to aromatic charm. Still some years ahead of it, I’d say. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Mellow, toasty aromas floating through toasty fruit with hints of mocha and white chocolate. 18