Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold color. Tight nose of yeast, toast, wax, and floral fruit. Inexpressive but finely mineral on the palate. A sensation of unripe fruit, with some phenolic touches. A good degree of elegance and some complexity. Youthful still, and it will improve for more than five years. 17

Michael Edwards: A lime-and-lemon character on both nose and palate; maybe a little rustic, but it does not lack flavor or character. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Angular, with a touch of high-toned aroma on the finish. 14