Cálem Colheita Douro Valley Portugal 2005 (20% ABV) – 92
SF | Classic tawny coloring—well-named, therefore. A refined nose, which marries oxidative notes with nuts and a lick of savory complexity. A deep, resonant mouthfeel, sweetness evidenced but not to excess, and only the faintest hint of alcoholic burn; a well-tempered Tawny style, almost commercial in its soft, seductive elegance. And if this is a definition of commercial, one may have to change one's judgment criteria! Maybe a little short, but that's a maybe only, and quite possibly confused for the trappings of “resolution.” 92
AJ | Clear and translucent amber-red. Scents of hessian, of casks and the lodge, with its warm, moist earth and dust; lots of secondary refinement here, but the oxidative evolution is very well-managed. Less aromatic fruit than many, by contrast. On the palate, this is energetic, vivid, and complete; seamless, too. Again, rather secondary in style, but there is fruit, carefully packed and stowed, like salt beef for a long voyage: brooding plum, damson, strawberry, and fig. Unshowy, unflamboyant, but very, very good. 2024–28. 92
RM | Good, mid-deep brick-red to tawny hue; gently roasted almonds and brazil nuts, beautifully melded with ripe, soft fruit. Similar savory richness on the palate, with a dusting of spicy tannin leading to a rich, savory finish, showing some depth and finesse. Lovely wine. 92