AJ | Even darker than the rest! Impenetrable. Very little scent other than a treacly sweetness, even with swirling. But it is very pure and comely, and the wine has been beautifully stewarded over the past 70 years. This is less sweet, rich and thick than wine 24, but it is notably more concentrated and intense ... so with both we are in the presence of "ultimates". And, readers, if you try either of them you will understand why I use this word. This is a mouthful of viscous raisiny sweetness that, once the sugars subside, seems to detonate and explode into ferocious austerity and bitter drama, like a summary of history. We are approaching the ancient apothecary essence here, and it is only palatable because of its colossal blanket of sugar; if it wasn't for that, it would be undrinkable. So in that sense it is a way to drink and taste time itself, history itself. Hard to mark because you are marking the human conservation of time rather than a drink ... but it is an amazing sensual experience for all that. Kudos! Drink Dates: 2025 - 2050. 95
SF | Midnight black with little by way of a rim. The aromatic is dominated by dried fruit and flowers, by hints of black tea, nutmeg and unburnt peat. There is a pleasing drill of acidity on the palate, completely unexpected, but gratefully acknowledged as it dances a neat counterpoint with the velvety fruit character and the savoury undertow of umami, sandalwood and pummice stone Drink Dates: 2025 - 2050. 92
RM | I have never knowlegeably tasted a PX with this sort of age; deep, opaque black colour with obvious viscosity; dense and hugely powerful on the nose with lifted intensity and massive, massive concentration; thankfully this is much less viscous than some of these wines and there is some acidity here to punctuate the syrup of fig richness - it is at least drinkable (just) and i stand in awe of its power and depth. Stupendous but how to award a mark to a wine that you respect utterly but don't really like. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2050. 93