Alison Buchanan: Impenetrable prune in color, this has a bittersweet, earthy nose, echoed on the palate, which has some rather bitter, burned, mineral elements. There is refreshment, too, but overall, sweetness and burned caramel bitterness compete for dominance—and harmony just eludes this wine. 15.5

Jesús Barquín: Mahogany. Very old and concentrated, with perceptible tannin and a note of wood on the nose. The palate is slightly drying, due to both this tannin and the sheer concentration of dry extract. The finish is heavenly, with powerful notes of mocha and dark chocolate. 18.5

Julian Jeffs: Good color. Slightly odd nose: thinner than I had expected. Also has a rather odd finish. Decent length. 15