Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque, with turn on the rim. Hints of small red fruits and perfume on the nose; woodsmoke. Fat, dense palate of great concentration but not, at the moment, of great balance. Very impressive but needs four years; drink from 2019. 92

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to orange rim. Broad, complex, leather-and-tobacco nose, with small black fruits and hints of petrol. Full-bodied palate, with dusty tannins and complex black-fruit character. Tobacco and leather and a long, fragrant finish. A muscular Barolo for rich Piemontese food that should age well for the next decade or more. 92

Andrew Jefford: Deep, to browning at the edge. Very secondary and developed, with lots of tangy ripeness, too; neither pristine nor poised, yet gratifying and attractive nonetheless. Fat and fungally delicious: Whack your nose into this soft cèpe. Wow: spectacular concentration here. Someone has left their fruit out very late, but can I say it was a mistake? I can’t. It’s low acid, it’s massively tannic, it’s not exactly classic, but it is one of the most compelling and fascinating and furrowed-brow wines in this very fascinating tasting. Exotic, almost kinky in the Barolo context, but all about the vineyard nonetheless, with little cellar influence and huge allusion potential. Take a look! 90