Essi Avellan: Medium-deep golden. Rich, evolved, toffee nose showing tertiary complexity. Starts to tire a bit on the palate, and oxidation is notable. Strong and cloying. Highly enjoyable, nonetheless. 17

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; delicate mousse. A highly articulate aromatic profile full of warm, lemony fruit, cold pounded butter, and a little seaweedy freshness, too. Rich and structured on the palate, with a deeply “mineral” flavor—lots of moist sand and moist chalk to support the beguiling lemon. Remarkably full-flavored, rich in personality, and has a sense of place: excellent vineyard Champagne. 18

Tom Stevenson: Somewhat oxidative aroma leads to a creamy-rich palate that seems to promise more than it gives. 16.5