Essi Avellan: Deep peach-hued color approaching rose. Full, ripe soft nose of mature Pinot fruit. Not completely clean fruitiness, and it is starting to tire. There is plenty of character, but it’s lacking elegance and harmony. 16

Andrew Jefford: Old gold now, but the mousse is sustained. Attractive: nutty and mushroomy. Tangy, gracious, and full on the palate, but probably on a gentle decline: I don’t get much sense of nerve or inner freshness, and the aromatic palate profile is a little smudgy. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Old-gold color with a marmalade hue, suggesting age. 15