Essi Avellan: Deep peach-tinged golden color. Soft, deep, oxidative nose. Spicy apple character. Concentrated and weighty; there is a lot on the palate. Great acidity, but the oxidation masks much of its complexity. 15

Andrew Jefford: Old gold with a steady mousse. Very full and developed, but attractive... like hovering your nose over a big tray of crystallized fruits and inhaling deeply. Oxygen-freighted but works well. On the palate, the wine is rich, deep, structured, and vinous. Not hugely detailed and not sharp-focused, but hey! Pour a glass and lean back into the sofa, and you’ll find a huge amount to enjoy. And isn’t that really what you’d want if you bought a 2003? Lovely vinosity here—almost the definition of the word. Structured fruit, heavy on the bough. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: By no means undrinkable, but too aldehydic. Lacks focus and finesse. 14