Stephen Brook: Lifted green-apple nose, no evident botrytis. Fresh, crisp, appley; refreshing, good acidity. Doesn’t have the complexity that botrytis would bring, but it’s direct, clean, silky, and concentrated. Good length and a lively finish. 18

Margaret Rand: Creamy, rich, and weighty; very elegant and balanced; great finesse. A classic wine, complex, and wearing its complexity lightly. Sweet, but no more so than you’d expect from an Auslese. Absolutely spot on. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Hot, heavy, rather metallic nose. Rather skinny with marked green-apple acidity on the palate. Still quite chewy. (This bracket of wines suddenly tasted cooler than the previous flights, by the way.) Reasonably complex and with some punch and nerve. Long. Drink 2012–19. 17