Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Very lean, tight, intense, citric. One-dimensional now, but it has an enviable attack and precision. Seems to lack complexity but it just needs time—at least ten years—for the fruit to unfurl from beneath that tight structure. Acidity conceals some of the sweetness, I suspect, but gives a welcome briskness and freshness to the admirably long finish. Not certain it will turn out to be great, but it has a lot going for it, and I shall give it the benefit of the doubt. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Peaches and cream, bright and smoky; classic. Lovely balance and richness, and approachable already, though it’s still tight. Serious wine; textbook-correct but exciting too. 18.5

Jancis Robinson: Light honey color. Open, spicy nose, with massive weight on the palate and very fine acidity. For the moment, at least, this wine does not have great depth, but it’s clean and fresh and satisfying. Astringent and rather introvert for the moment, though not delicate. Drink 2013–25. 18