Stephen Brook: Lush appley nose, quite voluptuous. Sweet and creamy, with a fine silkiness of texture. Excellent concentration, a certain vibrancy and purity, and an elegant if exotic character on the finish. Long and burnished. 17

Margaret Rand: Elegant, refined wine of great balance and stylishness. It wears its concentration and sweetness lightly, and has great complexity and depth. A beautiful wine. 18

Jancis Robinson: Big, bold, rather raw and simple glucose nose with green-leafy notes. The acidity is still a bit aggressive. I can’t see this wine ever being terrifically complex, but it certainly has the Oechsle level required… Drink 2012–20. 17.5