Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Muted orangey nose; marmalade. Unctuous, almost syrupy, very concentrated. Caramelized oranges, tangy acidity. Plenty going on here, but it’s far from harmonious now. There’s too much weight and not enough finesse and purity, which makes it a rather overbearing wine with good but not exceptional length. 17

Margaret Rand: Lovely roasted coffee-and-cream nose and palate. Balanced and enormous; concentrated and light. Superb and fascinating. 19

Jancis Robinson: Very deep-copper color. Interesting grilled-hazelnut flavors on the nose—some definitely burned aromas. Sweet, unctuous, with masses of acidity and clear botrytis influence—that zesty, green-cabbagey punch. Really exciting. Many layers and very, very intense. Blackcurrant-syrup flavor, too. Drink 2013–28. 19