Alison Buchanan: Jet-shot, treacle in appearance, this is a wonderful, decadent nose—a melange of macerated dried fruit, warm fruitcake, and caramelized nuts, refreshed by marmalade bitter-sweetness. Unctuous and supple, there is real warmth and personality here. The finish crops off sharply to leave toffeed sweetness. 16.5

Jesús Barquín: Light to medium mahogany. Serious nose—licorice, closed attic, echoes of jammy fruit. The palate is very sweet but well balanced by good acidity, great persistence with excellent quality, and a drying, concentrated finish. 18

Julian Jeffs: Deep color, good nose, a touch of complexity and good length, but not the complexity of great age. 16