Alison Buchanan: Deep olive-tinged prune, this has alluring citrus frehness on the nose—kumquat and tangerine. The palate effortlessly steers a course through opulent decadence while retaining tremendous decorum and vitality. Dried-fruit sweetness is refreshed throughout by stone fruit and citrus notes. Creamy rich and pure, throughout a long, poised finish. 19

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep chestnut. The nose shows intermediate age, where raisins have not yet given place to licorice. The palate displays moderate sweetness and the general impression is correct but lacking distinction and expressiveness. 14

Julian Jeffs: Deep color. Impressive nose. Shows complexity, with a slightly dry, long finish. 17